Has Bush Luxury arrived in Australia’s Top End? Southern Crossings Director, Stuart Rigg, recently visited Bamurru Plains, a newly opened wilderness lodge situated just west of Kakadu National Park, to find out.
Although self drive or a land transfer is an option, given the three hour journey I opted to take the short 25minute scenic flight from Darwin to Bamurru Plains, arriving at the nearby airstrip of Swim Creek Station, a 300square kilometer working buffalo station. From the airstrip it’s a 20-minute transfer by an open top 4WD to the lodge.
On arrival at the lodge, an informal introduction and cooling drink sets the tone for a friendly and personalized stay. The airy lodge building houses the dining area, an open bar, a small library and an array of comfortable seating options. On the raised deck overlooking the unbounded wilderness is a 10 metre infinity-edge swimming pool, informal seating areas (one covered for use during the heat of the day) and an outdoor fire pit which is lit each evening during sunset drinks and canapés, and for the occasional bush barbeque.
The outlook from the lodge is nothing short of spectacular as you gaze across the Mary River floodplains, teaming with birdlife including Magpie Geese, Whistling Ducks and Egrets, not to mention the estuarine crocodiles lurking in the wetlands and nearby Mary River.
From the outset, one is aware of the influence of the African safari camp concept at Bamurru Plains, not just in décor, but also in the mix of adventure and indulgence.
Whilst I would not consider this property suitable for children, on a “sole use” basis children over 6 years may be accepted, at the discretion of the management.
After refreshments, I was shown to my accommodation before heading out on tour. At the time of my visit, Bamurru Plains consisted of just three free-standing “safari suites”, although another six are planned for construction and due to be complete when the Lodge re-opens in February 2008. Not all suites will have air-conditioning and I would highly recommend opting for a suite that does, particularly for visitors during the “wet season” (December to March).
The suites are spacious but simple, even rustic, with ensuite bathrooms (showers only) and a screened balcony. Raised on a timber platform, the suites have clearly been designed to maximize interaction with their bush surroundings and provide a tranquil vantage point for wildlife viewing or just enjoying the spectacular outback sunsets.
In keeping with the unique environment, suites do not offer TV’s, telephones, CD players or indeed mini-bars. In my opinion the in-room lighting was inadequate. However, I was impressed with a number of special touches including the “swag” style bedding and native soaps, displayed on bark from the surrounding paperbark swamps.
Our touring commenced later that afternoon with a 4WD safari, which provided an ideal introduction to the property and the surrounding savannah bushland. For me, the touring at Bamurru Plains was a real highlight, with activities focusing on early morning and late afternoon when the bird and wildlife viewing is at its best. Over the next two days I enjoyed tours not only by 4WD but also by airboat, a unique (not to mention exhilarating!) way to access the floodplains and view the extraordinary bird and wildlife up close and personal. Whilst not available at the time of my visit, there are also plans to introduce a cruise boat for fishing and crocodile viewing. This area is home to one of the Northern Territory’s largest saltwater crocodile populations.
Whilst airboat and 4WD tours are included in the cost of your stay, there are also opportunities to fish for the famed Barramundi in the Sampan River, take a helicopter flight to view buffalo mustering at the station (in season), and visits to nearby Kakadu National Park (by air) at additional costs.
Whilst a touring structure is in place, I really appreciated the flexibility to accommodate the specific interests of a small number of guests. A highlight for me was pulling up at a billabong during the late afternoon, sipping wine and nibbling on Australian cheeses whilst peacefully watching buffalo wallow in the muddy billabong, surrounded by a myriad of birds and Agile Wallabies.
I should also mention that meals at the lodge were of a communal nature and an unexpected delight! Great food, an innovative menu, with lots of native (bush tucker) inclusions, all supported by quality Australian wines.
Bamurru Plains will suit those looking for an Australian wilderness travel experience, in exclusive, understated luxury. In a unique environment, with an extraordinary diversity and volume of birdlife, reptiles and wildlife, to quote our informative guide Barry, “this IS Australia’s Africa”.